This tutorial is brought to you by sailrite. in this tutorial tutorial we will show you every step required to make a canvas or vinyl bimini top for a powerboat. The boat we will use demonstrate the process is a Maxum 2900 SCR powerboat. The procedures outlined in this tutorial will also work for sailboats. We will be working with a boat that already has a tubing frame erected. Lets get started. Here is the original bimini. As you can see it is rather loose fitting. It was designed.
By laying two panels together and a seam running from bow to stern. For shape the seamstress inserted darts on both the starboard and port sides. Our bimini will be much tighter and will have panels that are sewn together along the top of each bow with seams going from starboard to port. The advantage is a tighter and better form fitting bimini top, the disadvantage is the extra fabric that is required, but.
The extra few yards is in our opinion well worth it. How much fabric will you need and what width fabric should you use? Because we will have individual panels between each bow and bows typically are never more than 42 apart a 46 width fabric is perfect. To calculate the amount of fabric required simply measure from mount position to mounting position from starboard to port then multiply that.
Amount by 1.6 for each bow section (a single panel will be made between each bow). So for this boat we measured 87 from mounting positions. Multiply that by 1.6 equals 1′.2 inches. We have 3 panels for our 4 bow bimini, as the radar arch serves as our 4th bow, so multiply that figure by 3 then divide by 36. So we will need to order 12 yards of 46 width Sunbrella Marine Grade fabric from Sailrite.
Ok, i am sure some of you are saying that is a lot of fabric for only 3 panels on a bimini. So, in an effort to show you why lets show all the patterns and panels that are first required for a 3 bow bimini. As you can see each panel or pattern has curved edges and the sleeves are curved it will take much more fabric than just a straight edge rectangle would have taken. Now lets look at a 4 bow bimini.
Layup, this is the bimini we are building for this project tutorial and it does require 12 yards. A full materials list and the tools we used will be found at the end of this tutorial. To prep for patterning be sure the frame is uniform from side to side. Take a few measurements on one side then compare that with the opposite side, make modifications where needed to ensure that the frame is horizontal and all bows are as uniform as possible. Then.
Check to be sure all set screws are snug. after that we are ready to start patterning. Lets get started and show you how to make your own bimini. Since our old bimini top is installed and the frame and we are using rigid supports for this frame all we have to do is secure any frame that will move once the old cover is removed. For this bimini that is only the intermediate bow. We will use 3M Filament Strapping tape to secure this bow so we can.
Pattern without it moving. if your bimini top fabric is missing and you do not have rigid supports but instead have webbing straps you will need to use this tape to secure all bows where you want them before patterning. You can run the tape to various locations on the boat to accomplish a firm sturdy frame position. Since we have an old bimini top and we like where the skirt edge falls (that is the outside.
How to Make a Carbon Fiber Car BonnetHood Part 13
Hello and welcome to this easy composites tutorial tutorial. in this series which is probably the most ambitious we’ll ever take on we’re going to be answering the question that we get asked more often than any other, which is how to make you’re own carbon fibre vehicle panels like this car bonnet that you see here. In the tutorial we’re going to be showing you every single step along the way including making the mould, making the parts, bonding the parts together, trimming and finishing to enable you to make your own incredibly.
Light, incredibly strong perfectly finished carbon fibre panels. we really hope you enjoy it. The first step in our process is to take this original steel bonnet which we’re using as our pattern. We’re going to add barriers all the way around the outside of it so that when we make our mould we actually created a mould with a flange on, and that flange will add stiffness to the mould and it will also give us plenty of opportunity to position the bagging consumables and things for the resin process. Before we actually apply any.
Barriers to this part we’re just going to take the opportunity to put down a full background layer of release agent. We’re using Easy Lease which is a chemical release agent and of cause this is what’s going to stop the gel coat from sticking to the part but while we’ve got the bonnet in this state it’s much easier to ensure that we’ve got everywhere covered and then we’ll probably do another application later on. Making barriers can be tricky. The technique that we’ve developed is to use corrugated signboard for the barriers themselves and.
The bond those to the underside of the part using hot melt glue. so the first thing to do is to use masking tape to actually make a template around the edge of the part and then we’ll transfer that onto the signboard and cut the barriers themselves. So with the masking tape all the way around the edge of the part it’s a case of just marking up where we’re actually going to make the barrier pieces in separate sections and we also at the same time just draw on the angle that we’re going to cut the barrier sections at and finally.
Number them so we can identify them. so we’re going to have a cut line here and a cut line coming off at this angle here. Then this will all be one piece and we’ll have cut lines on the barrier about there. The masking tape comes off the part extremely easily. So we’re just going to start it off and then cut it into the parts that we’ve identified, being careful not to rip the tape. So we’re transferring this line here onto the board. We know the angles that we want to make the barriers at. Once we’ve marked out all these templates.
We’re just going to cut them out with a sharp knife and then position them around the outside of the part. we’re working on the underside of the bonnet now where we’re going to be positioning this barrier. Now the way we’re going to do that is we’re going to apply masking tape to the edge on the underside of the bonnet here and then we’re going to be using hot melt glue on the masking tape and then on the barrier. the reason for the masking tape is so that this barrier is quite easy to remove when we’re done with the process. So we can.
Get started with that with the masking tape. we’ve got masking tape all the way along this top edge so now it’s time to use hot melt glue gun we’re going to just put a bead of glue all the way along the top edge and then stick the barrier to it. We’ve now flipped this bonnet over just before we do the wax we’re actually going to use a release tape to actually just seal these joins, or a breaker tape and that’s just going to prevent again any of the gel coat from running down into the gap. So we just take the tape and tape.
The seam and because it’s a release tape the resin and the gel coat won’t stick to it. So the next step is to us a yellow filleting wax to actually create a bead all the way around the edge between the bonnet onto the flange and what that will do is stops the gel coat from running under and locking in and also gives us a nice smooth transition so that when we’ve got the mould the parts themselves are going to release nicely and they’re not going to get caught up or mechanically locked on this edge. So we’ve put the filleting.