DIY RC Boat Bag for VHulls and Catamarans Easy to Build
Hey guys! I want to show you this RC boat bag that I just finished building. I’ve been having a problem getting the boat and all of the tools and all of the gear that I need, to the water easily so I wanted to build something to protect the boat and get all of my supplies there. I’m going to give you an overview of this bag real quick and then I’ll show you how to build it. So the bag is pretty well built. Heavy duty zippers and material. I didn’t build the bag of course but it’s nice and fur lined. This is my new ProBoat Voracity 36 that I’m.
Enjoying. This bag is 48 inches wide and the boat is 36quot;s wide. So it’s got a little bit of room on the ends, not a whole lot but you can see that it’s held down with these elastic Velcro straps. It works really well. It keeps the boat from moving around. And then underneath, I’ve got a bunch of tools. So I’m going to take the boat out and you can take a look. So inside the bag you can see the bunks that the boat rests on down here and there’s tools and props in this case down here. The lipo bags fit well on the ends. They actually can tuck up underneath here.
Like that. it keeps them at the end of the bag. And it just works really well. The elastic straps run underneath the bunks and then around the boat and it just keeps the boat from sliding around. This setup works really well because the boat doesn’t get banged up when you’re transporting it and everything fits in one bag. It leaves you with a free hand. So this bag is made by Stagg and it’s a PSB48. So it’s 48 inches wide. It’s made for musicians and band members for all of their gear. I bought this particular bag because I wanted the width.
The Voracity is a little bit wider than some other boats. Whenever you’re deciding on a bag make sure that you subtract a half inch from each side. So a total of one inch from the width of the bag to account for the frame. So the Voracity is 36 inches long plus about 4 inches that stick out the back with the rudder and prop and personally I would not want a shorter bag for this size boat. You could get away with it but it’s nice to have just a little extra room for LiPos on the ends or just whatever gear you have. So now that I have everything out of the bag you can see it a little more clearly. The bunk setup that I’m using is adjustable.
So you loosen these thumb screws down here and then the bunks will slide together and that will let you run catamaran hulls in here so you can use it for multiple hull types. It’s spread a little bit for the V right now. It works really well but if you push these together, you should be able to get a 4 inch wide tunnel at the minimum on there. If you need it to me smaller than that you could cut the T’s here. Cut the sides off and that would allow it to slide together more. So pretty flexible setup. So here you can see the frame outside of the bag. It’s a lot easier to see when it’s not in.
The bag. I’ll put a parts list in the description below. This is made out of half inch PVC. It’s easy to find. You get it at your local hardware store. You should be able to find it just about anywhere. I’m going to disassemble this and we’ll go step by step how to build it. So take your bag, you can see how floppy it is without a frame in there, and measure from one corner in the back to the other corner. And in this case it’s an actually dimension of about 46quot;. So you take that 46 and subtract an inch total. That’s a half inch from each side. That accounts for the fittings in the corners.
So in this case you would cut a 45quot; long piece of PVC. So once you have that cut, you need these 90 degree side outlet elbows. You can see it’s made specifically for a corner. So put those on each end. Get them pretty lined up and then test fit it. What you want is for it to be snug in here but you don’t want it to be to tight. You don’t want it to be straining the seems of the bag. So in this case, I’ve already got this built so it fits well. If it’s to tight, cut about a half inch off and retest it.
How to build a boat Catamaran you can live aboard part 1
This is the first of a series of tutorials about a catamaran I built back in the 90s. Building a boat, something big enough to live on and sail off over the horizon is a dream I had for years. My original idea was to build a monohull, in fact I bought plans for a little 21 footer that I was going to weld up and sail around the world in. The plan got postponed for a number of years.
And in that time I come across a couple of books that changed my ideas. It was back in the early 90’s First book was the Gougeon Brothers on boat building, all about building with epoxy and wood. And the other book was the cruising multihull by Chris White. The two of them together made sense Building a multihull, that didn’t rely on tonnes of lead to keep itself upright and building with wood, epoxy and fibreglass, all made sense to me.
I found plans I liked from a local multihull designer, Tony Grainger. I then started preparing the place to build it, in the bush on my parents property out the back of Noosa Heads. Queensland, Australia. The original shed was only big enough to build the 21ft boat that I originally planned to build. So I lengthened it with the idea of building the boat in 3 sections.
2 hulls separately and then the centre section. Which I ended up doing. Building of the hull starts with a strong back. It’s a ladder like construction that I concreted into the ground. I cut out temporary frames in chipboard. to make the cross sectional shapes of the hull. Using full size contours on mylar sheet that I laid down on the wood and traced out with a dressmakers wheel.
Each temporary frame is set up on the strong back. and lined up. It’s worth spending a little extra time to get everything spot on at this stage Getting it all lined up perfect. and the contours cut out perfect. made for an absolutely fair hull. It saves you a lot of time down the track. The construction was strip plank western red cedar.
Basically a wood cored fibreglass boat. My reasons for building it this way were that its a simple system for a one off boat You don’t need to build a mould before you can make it. produces a very fair hull. It’s strong, its light. The cedar strips were 14mm thick and for the majority of the boat 90mm wide.
What I’d bought, machined ah, were not long enough to make up the length of the hull so they have to be scarfed together to give you the full length of the hull. I set up a jig with my brothers radial saw, to saw them all give them a feather edge for scarfing. and then set up a jig table to scarf them all together. Once they were dried then I could start screwing them on to the temporary frames. Edge gluing them as I went.